The day uses taxis around two walkable clusters, each separated here. The guide controls the 13:00 Nezu ticket, Nintendo hard exit and TOSAGE 17:00 dependency.
Five eyewear saves from Viacheslav's list that fall on today's route. All open 11:00–20:00 on Sundays; the first four sit in one Jingūmae 6-chōme cluster off the Cat Street walk. Saved-interest only — no notes, no ratings.
JAPAN 2026
BREAD
GLASS
CERAMICS
PASTA
OUT AT 07:40, IN ABOUT 20:30
THE AOYAMA SIDE
2026
DAY XII · 13 SEPTEMBER · 東京
FIVE O'CLOCK DECIDES THE WHOLE DAY
A three-hour seating at seventeen hundred, charged in full if it is cancelled on the day, is the one thing on this Sunday that cannot move — so everything else is arranged behind it. Breakfast is early and outdoors is early: a converted bank at eight, Aoyama's two glass and steel boxes at nine, one vintage shop and nothing else. The heat is spent indoors, over coffee, a last day of paintings and a room of pots. Then a hard exit at twenty-five past four, and a counter.
AWAY AT 07:40; FIFTEEN TO TWENTY MINUTES ACROSS NIHONBASHI
II
K5 → AOYAMA, BY TAXI
AWAY ABOUT 08:40; ¥3,500 CARRIED AS AN ALLOWANCE, NOT A QUOTE
III
AOYAMA → OMOTESANDŌ → NEZU, ON FOOT
FOUR STOPS INSIDE ONE NEIGHBOURHOOD; A SHORT TAXI IF THE HEAT WINS
IV
NEZU → SHIBUYA PARCO, BY TAXI
AWAY AT 15:20 FOR A 15:40 DOOR; ¥2,000 ALLOWANCE
V
SHIBUYA → MOTOAZABU, BY TAXI
LEAVE AT 16:25 UNFINISHED IF NEED BE — SEVENTEEN HUNDRED IS FIXED
VI
MOTOAZABU → NIHONBASHI, BY TAXI
AWAY ABOUT 20:00 FOR A KEY BY 20:30; ¥6,000 COVERS BOTH RIDES
Nothing on this day is a ticket. There is no rail leg at all: two walks, one of them across a whole neighbourhood, and four taxis carried at ¥11,500 for the party — planning allowances, not quotes, and the first thing rain will make more expensive. The two evening rides are budgeted together because the second only exists to protect the first: away from PARCO at twenty-five past four, and away from the counter by eight.
CAFE DANCE serves breakfast from eight until eleven, last order half past ten, on the ground floor of K5 — the annex Shibusawa Eiichi's First National Bank put up in 1923 behind the Stock Exchange, in the quarter once called Japan's Wall Street, and which the Swedish practice Claesson Koivisto Rune turned into a hotel in 2020. One Parklet country-bread plate, one classic waffle, the Morning Set on both: ¥4,600 for two, tax included. Nobody holds a table.
From five past nine to ten to ten, while it is still bearable outside. Herzog & de Meuron's Prada Aoyama, finished in 2003: seven floors inside one rhomboid grid, its panes convex, concave and flat by turns, with part of the plot deliberately left empty as a plaza. Diagonally opposite, their Miu Miu of 2015 — seven hundred and twenty square metres of polished steel with the lid folded open at the door, copper and brocade within, opaque exactly where the other is clear. Then one shop and one only: AMORE Vintage Aoyama, second floor at 5-1-6 Jingūmae, ten until eight, Hermès and Louis Vuitton and Dior and Céline. Sixty-five minutes. Stock is stock, and none of it is held.
THE ROASTERY by NOZY stands on Cat Street at 5-17-13 Jingūmae and roasts in the room: single origins only, about eight beans on the counter to choose between, ten until eight every day of the week. Two contrasting cups between a quarter past eleven and ten to twelve, ¥1,360 to ¥2,160 for the pair. Then the seventh floor of the Louis Vuitton building, where the Fondation's Hors-les-murs programme has hung Rina Banerjee's You made me leave home… since 19 March — nineteen paintings, sculptures and installations, free — and Sunday the 13th is the last day it hangs. Half an hour. If Nintendo's Sunday turns awkward, this is the pair that goes.
The ticket is timed for one o'clock and the café goes first, not second: NEZUCAFÉ has forty-three seats, takes no reservation and stops taking food at three, so if the wait reaches twenty minutes the pots come first and the plate waits until ten past two. One café plate and one double meat-pie-and-salad is ¥3,350 before drinks. Then A Ceramic Travelogue — Chinese wares in Gallery 1, Japanese in Gallery 2, Korean in Gallery 5, drawn out of a collection of two thousand three hundred — until 12 October, ¥1,400 each on the timed ticket. The garden comes with it, and in this heat it is kept short. Entry stops at half past four.
Sixth floor of Shibuya PARCO, ten until nine — the first shop Nintendo has ever run itself in Japan. On weekends and holidays the floor can go over to numbered admission tickets, one for each person; PARCO's own notice on 27 August described only a morning stair queue from half past nine and named none, so the answer has to be looked up again on the 12th. Twenty to four until twenty-five past, the prepared list and no other floor. If it is unfinished at 16:25 it stays unfinished: the taxi to Motoazabu is the one appointment that does not bend.
Ryō Tosaka spent twelve years at Oggi dal-Matto, three of them running the kitchen, and opened here in 2022; the name folds his own into dosage, the last small addition made to champagne before the bottle leaves. The standard course is ¥18,700 a head with tax and ten per cent service on top — ¥41,140 for two before a single glass — and runs an amuse, a seafood dish, a risotto of Uonuma rice, charcoal-grilled aged Yamagata fillet, then as many as you like of six warm pastas, gelato, tiramisù, coffee. The counter is live, the seating is three hours. On 27 August the official system offered 17:00, 20:00 and 20:30, and not 19:00. Cancel on the day and it is charged in full; they ask for no strong scent.
The second of four Nihonbashi nights, and the day begins and ends at its door. The booking is still the one loose thread: on 25 August the hotel could not find the direct reservation by name and asked for booking-completion evidence, and its agreement to hold the two forwarded cases hangs on the same verification. There is a public bath, checkout is at noon, and the hotel's own Nihonbashi Asada serves breakfast from 06:30 if K5 falls through.
¥11,500
TAXIS, PARTY FOUR RIDES · ALLOWANCES, NOT QUOTES
¥50,450
FOOD AND COFFEE, PARTY TOSAGE ¥41,140 · K5 ¥4,600 · NEZU ¥3,350 · NOZY ¥1,360+
¥2,800
NEZU MUSEUM, PARTY ¥1,400 EACH · ESPACE IS FREE
¥64,750
DAY TOTAL FROM, TWO TRAVELLERS AT THE LOWER COFFEE PRICE · VINTAGE AND NINTENDO ON TOP
IF THE DAY SLIPS — five o'clock at TOSAGE and the 16:25 out of PARCO are the frame. Rain → breakfast stays indoors, the K5–Aoyama move becomes a taxi, and the exterior loop shrinks to Prada alone. CAFE DANCE shut → Nihonbashi Asada in the hotel from 06:30, ¥3,850 a head, heavier than the evening wants. A NEZUCAFÉ wait over twenty minutes → ceramics first and retry by 14:10, before the three o'clock food stop. Nintendo on numbered tickets → drop NOZY first, then Espace; Nezu, Nintendo and TOSAGE never weaken. If Saturday's rail broke and MOMAT moved here → MOMAT replaces Nezu and its lunch.
The day uses taxis around two walkable clusters, each separated here. The guide controls the 13:00 Nezu ticket, Nintendo hard exit and TOSAGE 17:00 dependency.
Five eyewear saves from Viacheslav's list that fall on today's route. All open 11:00–20:00 on Sundays; the first four sit in one Jingūmae 6-chōme cluster off the Cat Street walk. Saved-interest only — no notes, no ratings.
JAPAN 2026BREADGLASSCERAMICSPASTAOUT AT 07:40, IN ABOUT 20:30THE AOYAMA SIDE2026
DAY XII · 13 SEPTEMBER · 東京
FIVE O'CLOCK DECIDES THE WHOLE DAY
A three-hour seating at seventeen hundred, charged in full if it is cancelled on the day, is the one thing on this Sunday that cannot move — so everything else is arranged behind it. Breakfast is early and outdoors is early: a converted bank at eight, Aoyama's two glass and steel boxes at nine, one vintage shop and nothing else. The heat is spent indoors, over coffee, a last day of paintings and a room of pots. Then a hard exit at twenty-five past four, and a counter.
AWAY AT 07:40; FIFTEEN TO TWENTY MINUTES ACROSS NIHONBASHI
II
K5 → AOYAMA, BY TAXI
AWAY ABOUT 08:40; ¥3,500 CARRIED AS AN ALLOWANCE, NOT A QUOTE
III
AOYAMA → OMOTESANDŌ → NEZU, ON FOOT
FOUR STOPS INSIDE ONE NEIGHBOURHOOD; A SHORT TAXI IF THE HEAT WINS
IV
NEZU → SHIBUYA PARCO, BY TAXI
AWAY AT 15:20 FOR A 15:40 DOOR; ¥2,000 ALLOWANCE
V
SHIBUYA → MOTOAZABU, BY TAXI
LEAVE AT 16:25 UNFINISHED IF NEED BE — SEVENTEEN HUNDRED IS FIXED
VI
MOTOAZABU → NIHONBASHI, BY TAXI
AWAY ABOUT 20:00 FOR A KEY BY 20:30; ¥6,000 COVERS BOTH RIDES
Nothing on this day is a ticket. There is no rail leg at all: two walks, one of them across a whole neighbourhood, and four taxis carried at ¥11,500 for the party — planning allowances, not quotes, and the first thing rain will make more expensive. The two evening rides are budgeted together because the second only exists to protect the first: away from PARCO at twenty-five past four, and away from the counter by eight.
ALLOWANCES, NOT QUOTES青山通り — THE AVENUE THE TAXIS RUNFOUR RIDES, ¥11,500
WALK-IN, NOT BOOKED常盤橋 — A STONE ARCH ON THE NIHONBASHI RIVER08:00 TO 08:40
EIGHT O'CLOCK · 兜町
BREAKFAST IN A 1923 BANK ANNEX
CAFE DANCE serves breakfast from eight until eleven, last order half past ten, on the ground floor of K5 — the annex Shibusawa Eiichi's First National Bank put up in 1923 behind the Stock Exchange, in the quarter once called Japan's Wall Street, and which the Swedish practice Claesson Koivisto Rune turned into a hotel in 2020. One Parklet country-bread plate, one classic waffle, the Morning Set on both: ¥4,600 for two, tax included. Nobody holds a table.
From five past nine to ten to ten, while it is still bearable outside. Herzog & de Meuron's Prada Aoyama, finished in 2003: seven floors inside one rhomboid grid, its panes convex, concave and flat by turns, with part of the plot deliberately left empty as a plaza. Diagonally opposite, their Miu Miu of 2015 — seven hundred and twenty square metres of polished steel with the lid folded open at the door, copper and brocade within, opaque exactly where the other is clear. Then one shop and one only: AMORE Vintage Aoyama, second floor at 5-1-6 Jingūmae, ten until eight, Hermès and Louis Vuitton and Dior and Céline. Sixty-five minutes. Stock is stock, and none of it is held.
EXTERIORS ONLYプラダ青山 — HERZOG & DE MEURON, 200309:05 TO 09:50
FREE, AND ENDING表参道 — MIRRORS AT THE HARAJUKU END11:15 TO 12:30
LATE MORNING · 表参道
EIGHT BEANS, THEN NINETEEN WORKS
THE ROASTERY by NOZY stands on Cat Street at 5-17-13 Jingūmae and roasts in the room: single origins only, about eight beans on the counter to choose between, ten until eight every day of the week. Two contrasting cups between a quarter past eleven and ten to twelve, ¥1,360 to ¥2,160 for the pair. Then the seventh floor of the Louis Vuitton building, where the Fondation's Hors-les-murs programme has hung Rina Banerjee's You made me leave home… since 19 March — nineteen paintings, sculptures and installations, free — and Sunday the 13th is the last day it hangs. Half an hour. If Nintendo's Sunday turns awkward, this is the pair that goes.
The ticket is timed for one o'clock and the café goes first, not second: NEZUCAFÉ has forty-three seats, takes no reservation and stops taking food at three, so if the wait reaches twenty minutes the pots come first and the plate waits until ten past two. One café plate and one double meat-pie-and-salad is ¥3,350 before drinks. Then A Ceramic Travelogue — Chinese wares in Gallery 1, Japanese in Gallery 2, Korean in Gallery 5, drawn out of a collection of two thousand three hundred — until 12 October, ¥1,400 each on the timed ticket. The garden comes with it, and in this heat it is kept short. Entry stops at half past four.
TICKET NOT BOUGHT — T-14根津美術館 — THE BAMBOO APPROACH13:00 TO 15:20
WALK-IN, CROWD-DEPENDENT渋谷パルコ — THE SIXTH FLOOR15:40 TO 16:25
TWENTY TO FOUR · 任天堂 東京
FORTY-FIVE MINUTES AND A LIST
Sixth floor of Shibuya PARCO, ten until nine — the first shop Nintendo has ever run itself in Japan. On weekends and holidays the floor can go over to numbered admission tickets, one for each person; PARCO's own notice on 27 August described only a morning stair queue from half past nine and named none, so the answer has to be looked up again on the 12th. Twenty to four until twenty-five past, the prepared list and no other floor. If it is unfinished at 16:25 it stays unfinished: the taxi to Motoazabu is the one appointment that does not bend.
Ryō Tosaka spent twelve years at Oggi dal-Matto, three of them running the kitchen, and opened here in 2022; the name folds his own into dosage, the last small addition made to champagne before the bottle leaves. The standard course is ¥18,700 a head with tax and ten per cent service on top — ¥41,140 for two before a single glass — and runs an amuse, a seafood dish, a risotto of Uonuma rice, charcoal-grilled aged Yamagata fillet, then as many as you like of six warm pastas, gelato, tiramisù, coffee. The counter is live, the seating is three hours. On 27 August the official system offered 17:00, 20:00 and 20:30, and not 19:00. Cancel on the day and it is charged in full; they ask for no strong scent.
The second of four Nihonbashi nights, and the day begins and ends at its door. The booking is still the one loose thread: on 25 August the hotel could not find the direct reservation by name and asked for booking-completion evidence, and its agreement to hold the two forwarded cases hangs on the same verification. There is a public bath, checkout is at noon, and the hotel's own Nihonbashi Asada serves breakfast from 06:30 if K5 falls through.
¥11,500
TAXIS, PARTY FOUR RIDES · ALLOWANCES, NOT QUOTES
¥50,450
FOOD AND COFFEE, PARTY TOSAGE ¥41,140 · K5 ¥4,600 · NEZU ¥3,350 · NOZY ¥1,360+
¥2,800
NEZU MUSEUM, PARTY ¥1,400 EACH · ESPACE IS FREE
¥64,750
DAY TOTAL FROM, TWO TRAVELLERS AT THE LOWER COFFEE PRICE · VINTAGE AND NINTENDO ON TOP
IF THE DAY SLIPS — five o'clock at TOSAGE and the 16:25 out of PARCO are the frame. Rain → breakfast stays indoors, the K5–Aoyama move becomes a taxi, and the exterior loop shrinks to Prada alone. CAFE DANCE shut → Nihonbashi Asada in the hotel from 06:30, ¥3,850 a head, heavier than the evening wants. A NEZUCAFÉ wait over twenty minutes → ceramics first and retry by 14:10, before the three o'clock food stop. Nintendo on numbered tickets → drop NOZY first, then Espace; Nezu, Nintendo and TOSAGE never weaken. If Saturday's rail broke and MOMAT moved here → MOMAT replaces Nezu and its lunch.
